Richard Roundtree as John Shaft in Shaft (1971)
Vitals
Richard Roundtree as John Shaft, tough private detective
New York City, January 1971
Film: Shaft
Release Date: June 25, 1971
Director: Gordon Parks
Costume Designer: Joseph G. Aulisi
Background
Through his life and after his death in October 2023, Richard Roundtree was often considered the “first Black action hero” for his groundbreaking performance as the smooth private detective John Shaft across a trio of thrillers released across the early 1970s. The fact that Shaft had been Roundtree’s first major movie after starting his career as a model makes his dynamic screen presence all the more impressive.
Initially followed by two sequels and a short-lived TV series, the original 1971 movie Shaft—adapted from Ernest Tidyman’s novel of the same name—contained all the elements for success: the gritty New York location, Isaac Hayes’ iconic Oscar-winning theme song and funky score, and the smooth-talking, ass-kicking, leather-clad Roundtree as the lead character.
The start of Black History Month feels like the ideal time to celebrate Roundtree’s legacy as the the cat that won’t cop out when there’s danger all about… right on.
What’d He Wear?
Shaft was one of the first credited jobs for costume designer Joseph G. Aulisi, who would specialize in dressing characters for the tough world of ’70s New York as illustrated by his work in movies like The Gang That Couldn’t Shoot Straight (1971), The Seven-Ups (1973), Death Wish (1974), and Three Days of the Condor (1975).
Aulisi dresses Shaft in a rotation of leather outerwear, from the long brown leather trench coat during the opening sequence to the black leather motorcycle jacket and matching pants when he’s in assault mode. Aulisi would again dress Richard Roundtree in those pieces for the sequel Shaft’s Big Score! (1972), but Shaft’s screen closet also includes a moto-inspired brown leather jacket that appears only in the first Shaft movie.
Made from a dark brown leather shell which may be horsehide, the jacket’s design takes some inspiration from traditional motorcycle jackets with its asymmetrical front zip. broad lapels, and belted waist, but it extends longer than Perfecto-style moto jackets with a thigh-length cut similar to some car coats.
The brass front zipper has a circular zip-pull and can be fastened up from the waist to the neck, pulling the left lapel closed the higher it goes. The lapels are broad with squared ends, finished with an edge-stitching present throughout the rest of the jacket. A full self-belt around the waist closes through a leather-covered single-prong buckle, fastened through one of five brass grommets. The jacket also has a single vent and slanted-entry hand pockets. The set-in sleeves are finished with belted cuffs.
Unlike the trench coat which he typically layers over suits, Shaft wears this jacket more casually over one of his many turtlenecks. This rust-orange mid-weight ribbed-knit sweater has a full roll-neck and set-in sleeves.
Shaft tucks the turtleneck into his tight dark-brown polyester flat-front slacks, styled like his other trousers with belt loops, slanted front pockets (and no back pockets), and plain-hemmed bottoms with some fashionable flare. He holds the trousers up with a dark-brown leather belt that closes through a squared brass-toned single-prong buckle.
Befitting his dangerous occupation, Shaft carries his snub-nosed revolver in a black leather shoulder holster, positioned under his right armpit for a left-handed draw. The rig has a loop that hooks around the right side of his belt and a black vinyl adjustable support strap that loops around Shaft’s left shoulder.
Briefly spied at the bottom of the frame, Shaft’s brown leather boots are likely the same square-toed ankle boots that his regular shiner Cul (Arnold Johnson) observed seeing a scuff on the left boot.
Shaft wears a stainless steel wristwatch with a round silver dial that BAMF Style reader Aldous has helpfully identified as likely a late 1960s-vintage Rado. The unique rally-style bracelet has three large holes on each side of the case, connected by a series of smaller holes as the band extends around the wrist. While rally watch straps are often made of leather, metal bracelets with large round perforations like Shaft’s also emerged during the 1960s as a stylish alternative to the breathable straps popularized by race car drivers.
The Gun
Carried in a shoulder holster under his right arm, John Shaft metes out justice with a Colt Detective Special, the venerated “belly gun” perfectly named for an investigator like Shaft. Colt introduced the Detective Special in 1927, balancing concealment and power with its six rounds of .38 Special mated to a two-inch barrel. As its name—and usage by fictional detectives like John Shaft—implies, the Detective Special was a quick favorite among plainclothes police, though its practicality and reliability also attracted crooks and civilians alike.
Colt shared the snub-nosed revolver market with competitors like Smith & Wesson, who also offered short-barreled .38s like their six-shot Model 10 Military & Police and smaller-framed five-shot Model 36 Chiefs Special. While all of these revolvers may appear similar to a layperson, the Detective Special—like most early 20th century Colt revolvers—can be quickly differentiated by its unshrouded ejector rod under the barrel.
Shaft actually owns two Detective Specials: a blued steel model with wooden grips that he carries for most of the film and a nickel-plated backup that he keeps in his refrigerator. The blued Detective Special in this sequence can be identified as an early first-generation Detective Special, differentiated by the full “half-moon” front sight without the ramped back that was introduced for the “Second Series” in 1947.
How to Get the Look
Richard Roundtree as John Shaft in Shaft (1971)
John Shaft’s sweet ’70 leather collection includes a brown motorcycle-inspired car coat, worn over one of his usual turtlenecks and shoulder holster.
- Dark-brown leather thigh-length jacket with square-ended lapels, asymmetrical brass front zip, self-belt with leather-covered single-prong buckle and brass grommets, slanted-entry hand pockets, set-in sleeves with belted cuffs, and rear vent
- Rust-orange ribbed-knit turtleneck sweater
- Dark-brown polyester flat-front trousers with belt loops, slanted front pockets, and flared plain-hemmed bottoms
- Dark-brown leather belt with squared gold single-prong buckle
- Brown leather square-toe ankle boots
- Black leather shoulder holster with black vinyl support strap and belt-connector strap
- Steel wristwatch with round silver dial on metal rally-style bracelet
Do Yourself a Favor and…
Check out the movie.
The Quote
Don’t let your mouth get your ass in trouble.
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